Finally, we uploaded some photos! Thank you expensive wireless internet!

We've been snapping photos here and there, so hopefully these will give you a sense of what we're seeing here!

Go to http://flickr.com/photos/serenden/

Or click on the photos in the sidebar here to go to the flickr site...

Enjoy!

We hopped into a cab last night on our way home, and I caught a smile in the cabbie's eyes as he glimpsed me through the rearview mirror. I caught the large red coloring on his forehead, too, smothered thoroughly in the crease between his bushy eyebrows.

Through the dust and stench of pollution on the streets of Mumbai, the honking of cars and swarms of people, I was momentarily calmed by the small, neon flashing figure of Ganesh, the Hindu god personified as an elephant, sitting atop the dashboard. In front of the figure were three sticks of aromatic incense burning, sending sweet and spicy fragrances wafting through our little cab.

I enjoyed that cab ride.

Tonight, on my way home, I was not so fortunate. I'm quite sure my cabbie tonight was picking up prostitutes on his way to my destination. And his cab smelled worse than the streets.

Some people keep their space holy, others have different things on their mind.

Such are our differences.

Pollution Everywhere

How do people survive breathing so much pollution every day? The sky is not really even blue here. The city is smothered in its own filth. Across the glistening bay, skyscrapers appear through a haze. Across the street at 3 in the afternoon, the trees play host to the dust, and drink up the toxic puddles that lay beneath them.

Kabul was full of dust, but Mumbai is full of toxins.

Swarms.

And then there's the people. I've never seen so many people. It is truly a swarming mass of humanity, never-ending, always moving. There are men in button-up business shirts and trousers, but few briefcases. Women in bright saris going to work, or selling vegetables. Old men taking a nap on the sidewalk, their skin blending with the shadows. Children running through the side streets, street sweepers with straw brooms, working men with somewhere to be, old women sitting idly near the gutter, hand extended in search of food or coins.

A man sells an huge, oversized orange balloon on a street corner. Another sits on the sidewalk in a mask, and when he blows into a plastic mouthpiece, his mask grows pink paper horns. He shows his horns as I pass by. Then there is the man who stood naked on the street corner. Naked, he just stood there. A few people stared. An ox-drawn cart pulls unnamed supplies down a busy street. A horse-drawn carriage, brightly shining in sequins and white, carries two young girls in a procession bright saris and men with umbrellas.

And then there's the animals. Large, holy cows meander on random corners, or stand quietly munching hay, tied to a pole. Dogs lie about napping, or rummaging in search of scraps. Goats occupy alleyways, ducks bathe in a puddle as a cat watches eagerly from atop a trash bin. Birds circle above, chirping from the trees, barely audible over the traffic.

The definition of a concrete jungle.

7am, traffic is slowly making its comeback from the relatively quiet night.

Birds fly from rooftop to window sill to tree.

The haze gives way to light.

Mumbai.

City from my history books. Relic of British colonialism. It is alive.

A certain calm sets over me now that I have seen it with my own eyes.

But there is a lot to do.

end poetic-ness.

Yesterday we visited the NGO we hope to work with, and were both impressed. They are in the process of expansion, having started with just 5 schools in the early 90's, now with over 40 schools just in Mumbai.

They recruit children of all ages who are struggling in the formal school system, and bring them to a center for a few hours in the morning or evening, aside from regular school times, to teach them English, Math, and a basic value system, through example and discussion, in order to promote them as responsible contributors to society. It is Indian-run, and was started by a group of college students - the young helping the young.

There is a special program which I am hoping to work in, which takes children with an exceptional academic promise, and tutors and supports them to continue their education through university, in order to lift them and their future families out of the poverty cycle permanently.

We met with the teachers for this program yesterday and sat in on a section of their class - a teacher led a literary circle, where the kids discussed a book they are reading by writing summaries, discussing grammar points, and talking about the content. She focused on helping the kids to think logically and engage in useful discussion. Rapport with the kids is very important, and I know it will take much time and effort to gain it. But the kids seemed great - lively but positive, mostly. I am sure there are bad days.

----

As for our full trip so far, for me, there is a certain formation of strategy and idea that is slowly making itself known. While I was impressed with some of the aspects of development we saw in Afghanistan, I also became very aware of the need for improvement and for more effective international intervention.

Here, if we are given the chance to become strongly involved in a successful NGO, who has ties to western and eastern best-practices, funds, and led by strong young individuals, we can gain a solid means of applying our knowledge for those in need, and for the elevation of overall peace and positive development.

Learning first-hand the trials and challenges in Afghanistan was worth all the risks. For myself, and for the role I seek to play in society, there is simply no other way to grasp what it is that we, as a human community, need in order to further our capacity as enlightened beings. Without that knowledge, my contribution could not be fully informed.

Hi all, I posted just a handful of photos from our last days in Dubai... we haven't taken the cameras out in Mumbai yet, but hopefully will this weekend!

Enjoy!

http://www.flickr.com/photos/serenden/

Hi all,

 

Well, here we are, our trip stops for awhile, in Mumbai.

 

First impressions -- lots and lots of people. Crumbling buildings, a film of dirt covering everything, including the keyboard I'm typing on, lots of pollution, and a little stinky.

 

Hello Bombay!

 

For me, I really enjoyed Dubai, and what else we saw of the UAE. The Muslim call to prayer eminated all around us 5 times a day and was incredibly beautiful and soulful. I can easily see the lure. Things were clean, people were kind, and modesty was the norm.

 

While sitting in our small hotel's lobby in Dubai, I had a great conversation with a woman performing the Hajj. This is the pilgrimage to the holy city of Mecca that every Muslim strives to complete at least once in their life. She was originally from Morocco, but was living with her Indian husband in Malawi. She wore the traditional bedouin black garment, covering all but her face, which was strikingly beautiful. A young mother of two, she was easy to talk with, and was excited to be on her first pilgrimage. We talked about shopping, travelling, and then religion, and it was an easy conversation. She was suprised and happy to hear that I'm quite familiar with Islam.

 

The Muslim world is vast and varied, and there is a lot for the West to learn. There must be no better way to do this than from Muslims themselves, and I hope I get more chances to have such enlightening conversations.

 

Anyway, back to Bombay. We slept all day today so haven't seen much. But we'll be here for awhile, so we're in no hurry.

 

Will keep you all posted!

Walking around Dubai, you see Arabs in traditional white robes and checkered head pieces, Africans in every color imaginable, Pakistanis in salwaar-kameez, Western tourists in neon shoes and backpacks... and that's just the beginning.

 

You also see wealth. Everywhere. Not among the 80% population that is expats, but among the Emiratis. Loads of it. They are greening the desert and building high-rise after high-rise. Ever wonder where that money in your gas tank is going? :))

 

We are staying at our hotel in Dubai till Wednesday night, hoping for visas by Thursday. Tomorrow we'll head to Sharjah for some museums and maybe the beach.

 

With love from Dubai.

 

 

We haven't gotten many pictures here, which is something we hoped to send home, of course. Pictures of people, of daily life, what it's really like here, compared to the bombs we see on tv.

But, the situation is such that neither of us have felt comfortable pulling out a camera.

And we are not tourists here. Afghanistan doesn't need tourists. It needs development, it needs work. Better to save the vacation time for after the work is done.

And what does tourism bring to a place, I wonder? Money, of course. Development, yes... but often in the form of large hotels where local people do not go. But of course it also brings roads, infrastructure. And it brings photographers.

I have witnessed here a form of picture-taking that made my stomach turn. I watched as two western women snapped their cameras at people they passed without a word - not a hello, not a "how are you", which every Afghan seems to enquire, just a click. This after hearing stories of hardships and distress, not to mention the environment all around them, which is full of the need for development and security.

What bothers me about this the most is the way it subjugates the photographed to the status of a creature in a zoo. The photographer acts as merely a tourist, enjoying the ride, while the photographed walks away to deal with the hardships of poverty and war. Is this the developed world's relationship with the developing?

And then here I come, wanting to "help". What does "help" mean? Sharing my skills? Promoting the need for others to "help"? I feel that it means empowering those less fortunate to take the first steps in their progress towards a better life. But there is a fine line between assistance and modern colonialism. For what does the developed world stand to gain from helping out those in need? Cheap labor? More natural resources? Or a sense of belonging in the human community?

Tourism is a form of relaxation and enjoyment, but to help others is a form of service. Photographs must serve a purpose towards that service, not for the photographed, but for those in need.

If we were here for longer, and I could talk with people here more about their needs, perhaps I could use their photographs to bring them further assistance... perhaps this can be a goal from now on.

A few more days left, then we're back to the desert of Dubai. I want to see more and more of the beautiful Afghan mountains surrounding us. It'll have to wait until the next visit.

From my point of view, I have been extremely limited in what I've been able to see and do... which has been basically not much at all. This because of the organization I'm working with. And I'm learning that this is not the kind of thing I fit into...

Yet, on the bright side, the Afghani people I have met have seemed to be nothing but kind and warm, and I have a very positive impression of the country's potential and its past. Also, there are many, many people here who are working for the good of their country. No matter what is seen on the news, the vast majority of the country is just like any other place - people are trying to work to make a living and support their families.

I wish we didn't have to leave. But I'm also ready for some fresh air and a long walk.

I'm more interested than ever in learning first-hand about Muslim society in all its cultural forms. I can get used to the head scarf in no time, if it means access to such rich history and engaging conversations. Why this is all so interesting, I'm not exactly sure, but I do know I feel more comfortable every day, and excited to meet more people.

In any event, we have made some good contacts here, and I think it will lead to many more adventures in the future.

"I need to use the toilet, is it possible?"

"Yes, I will ask"

....

"This way..."

I follow a small boy away from the riverside fish huts, behind a large open shelter of red carpets and cushions, and towards a wooden box on stilts.

H., our driver, follows behind. The boy points to the large box, and I smile.

"Tashakoor".

Off I go. Hey, I've been in some strange toilets before...

I open the creaky plywood door.

Behold, A human-sized box. A box of poop.

There is a hole in the middle of the floor, but the poop is a foot higher than the floor.

I step in. Miraculously, there is little smell.

I realize I've got an even bigger task... I've got to avoid stepping on the individual piles of poop which decorate the floor.

I managed.

Well, we've posted just a handful of photos from our trip to the
provinces of Kapisa and Parwan today. See them on our Flickr site
(sidebar of blog).

We want to let you know that we will try to get more photos, but have
so far found it to be a more difficult task than in other places.
First, my camera is much too expensive-looking to use in public, and
second, even with our small camera, we are uncomfortable with taking
photos of people who are in need of so much, just because we want
photos to take home.

Driving through a small town market today (unlike any 'market' we
have back home), we drove past a ... CAMEL! ... walking along the
street, decorated and carrying goods! Our first camel!

We also saw hanging meat, goats being herded, donkeys. Also, people
here are incredibly diverse-looking - every shade of eye color you
can imagine. And the dress is something of a treat to look at - large
blankets wrapped around old men with long white beards, big bushy
eyebrows and turbans around their heads...

Anyway, enjoy the few photos!

Well, we've managed to upload photos to the Flickr site, so visit it and check them out!!!

http://www.flickr.com/photos/serenden/

Enjoy!

P.S. You can check the sidebar on this page too...

Here we are, Kabul, Afghanistan. Wow, can you believe it? I can't!

The flight into Kabul was beautiful. We swung around towering mountains before descending to the Kabul airport, it was almost surreal.

Then the airport. There I was, along with the rest of the female passengers (none Afghan) wrapping myself up in a scarf before exiting the plane.

I've wrapped my hair up in a long scarf before in front of our mirror at home, then pranced around the house like I was playing dress-up... but this was different, by far!

Try carrying two laptops, a camera case, and your passport wallet with a big long scarf wrapped every which way around you, and get out of an aircraft and onto a bus, then into a small, strange passport-control center, then throw everything onto an x-ray belt, then pick it all up again... with a damn scarf falling all over you. Dammit! :)

A NOTE ON FASHION

While walking in Dubai, I was amazed at the different types of fashion among women. Dubai is only about 15 - 20% local Emirates population, so most everyone is from somewhere else - mainly India, Pakistan, Oman, etc. The few Emirates women I saw walking the streets were outfitted in beautiful light, flowing black garments (called chador) that covered them completely, and I must say, I found them to be beautiful. Many had dark embroidery along the edges. One woman had just a very thin strip of orange on the hem of her head scarf piece, and it was striking. Few women have their face covered completely (all except the eyes), but some do.

The rest of the women I walked among were mainly Indian, Malaysian, or perhaps Filipina.

Almost all the men wore the shalwar kameez - the national dress of Pakistan, with very long shirt and long pants. It looks really comfortable. Emirites men seem to mostly wear the white robe with white head scarf and black band around their head, similar to Saudi Arabia. That looks comfy too.

ON TO KABUL

Anyway, the drive from the airport to the UNDP compound was a little unnerving, mostly due to the chaos on the streets. But, our driver was very nice, and we got to our destination safely. I met the women I have been working with and they are just wonderful. I am so glad we are here.

After some briefing, and getting my radio to check in with, we were dropped off at our guest house, checked in, and are now relaxing! The room is quite big, with a large bathroom and two large beds - plenty of room for 2 weeks. In fact, this is probably the closest thing to a "home" we'll have in a little while!

So, I think we are both comfortable being here. Yes, we saw a few policemen with large guns on the streets, but not half as many as I expected. It is definitely dusty, and there's no shortage of rubble, but here it is - Kabul. It is alive and kicking, lots of noise and people on the streets. Lots of traffic in the evening.

Our time in Japan has accustomed us to being stared at - it doesn't bother us at all now (although it'll take a few more strolls in the UAE to get used to packs of men staring as I walk by)!
Also, our trip to Cambodia last spring definitely gave us a better sense of what it's like to be in areas where people have little, and seeming chaos reigns.

So, we have internet in our room - while choppy and already 2 power failures this evenings - we will keep you all posted frequently.

One week to go, and we're going through the mounds of stuff we seem to have. Where did it all come from? Oh yeah, we shipped it from home... silly us.

I get to make a speech at my school tomorrow to say goodbye to the students - they are supposedly going to sing me a song, even!

The weather is fantastic today, and we're getting excited for Mumbai... and everywhere else.

Here we are, at the crossroads of a new adventure.

Good friends made, lots of laughs, a few tears here and there, and growth beyond what we ever imagined.

And we're glad to bring everyone along with us for the ride! So bookmark this new site, and

feet, let's go!