Saturday, November 24, 2007

Kabul 1

Here we are, Kabul, Afghanistan. Wow, can you believe it? I can't!

The flight into Kabul was beautiful. We swung around towering mountains before descending to the Kabul airport, it was almost surreal.

Then the airport. There I was, along with the rest of the female passengers (none Afghan) wrapping myself up in a scarf before exiting the plane.

I've wrapped my hair up in a long scarf before in front of our mirror at home, then pranced around the house like I was playing dress-up... but this was different, by far!

Try carrying two laptops, a camera case, and your passport wallet with a big long scarf wrapped every which way around you, and get out of an aircraft and onto a bus, then into a small, strange passport-control center, then throw everything onto an x-ray belt, then pick it all up again... with a damn scarf falling all over you. Dammit! :)

A NOTE ON FASHION

While walking in Dubai, I was amazed at the different types of fashion among women. Dubai is only about 15 - 20% local Emirates population, so most everyone is from somewhere else - mainly India, Pakistan, Oman, etc. The few Emirates women I saw walking the streets were outfitted in beautiful light, flowing black garments (called chador) that covered them completely, and I must say, I found them to be beautiful. Many had dark embroidery along the edges. One woman had just a very thin strip of orange on the hem of her head scarf piece, and it was striking. Few women have their face covered completely (all except the eyes), but some do.

The rest of the women I walked among were mainly Indian, Malaysian, or perhaps Filipina.

Almost all the men wore the shalwar kameez - the national dress of Pakistan, with very long shirt and long pants. It looks really comfortable. Emirites men seem to mostly wear the white robe with white head scarf and black band around their head, similar to Saudi Arabia. That looks comfy too.

ON TO KABUL

Anyway, the drive from the airport to the UNDP compound was a little unnerving, mostly due to the chaos on the streets. But, our driver was very nice, and we got to our destination safely. I met the women I have been working with and they are just wonderful. I am so glad we are here.

After some briefing, and getting my radio to check in with, we were dropped off at our guest house, checked in, and are now relaxing! The room is quite big, with a large bathroom and two large beds - plenty of room for 2 weeks. In fact, this is probably the closest thing to a "home" we'll have in a little while!

So, I think we are both comfortable being here. Yes, we saw a few policemen with large guns on the streets, but not half as many as I expected. It is definitely dusty, and there's no shortage of rubble, but here it is - Kabul. It is alive and kicking, lots of noise and people on the streets. Lots of traffic in the evening.

Our time in Japan has accustomed us to being stared at - it doesn't bother us at all now (although it'll take a few more strolls in the UAE to get used to packs of men staring as I walk by)!
Also, our trip to Cambodia last spring definitely gave us a better sense of what it's like to be in areas where people have little, and seeming chaos reigns.

So, we have internet in our room - while choppy and already 2 power failures this evenings - we will keep you all posted frequently.

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