Sunday, October 5, 2008

Eid in Mumbai

How Serenity celebrated Eid:

On the morning of Eid (the end of the Muslim holy month of Ramadan), and consequently Mahatma Gandhi's birthday anniversary, my NGO held a special "Walk" - I was in a group of about 8, and we split up into groups of 4 or so, and walked from one train station through some neighborhoods, to another train station. There were about 300 people total who participated. The aim was to walk, as opposed to drive, take a train, etc., and to take a little time to say hello to fellow citizens, and to celebrate Gandhi's birthday, as he did the same thing throughout his life, walking and connecting with "the masses", as he put it.

As my Hindi is still pretty poor, I didn't talk to many people, but I did observe two women who brought along their 11-12 year old daughters. Their daughters handed out biscuit-packs (crackers) to very poor people we met, and also stopped to talk with some middle-class families walking along, and we all talked about Gandhi and made sure the kids knew who he was and what he did.

All in all, it was a nice way to spend a morning. But, afterwards, the real fun started -

I met at our school (which was closed for the day) with Purvi, our two jr. kindergarten teachers, and our social worker, and we all walked over to the slum community where a lot of our students live, to wish them "Happy Eid". Ramadan lasts for one month, when devout Muslims fast each day while the sun is up, and only eat or drink water when the sun is down. Ramadan, as I understand it, is the ninth month of the Islamic calendar, and when the Qu'ran was revealed through God (Allah) to Mohammed. Muslims fast in order to practice patience and sacrifice. Most of our students and two of our teachers are Muslim.

Everyone was so dressed up all over the city - men in bright white pajamas, some with gold stitching, women in brightly colored outfits, jewelled bangles around their wrists, and hair and make-up done up. Small boys were dressed in flashy suits, and girls in countless jewels.

So, we walked through the community - a twisting, turning maze of alleyways and two-story dwellings, where sometimes only a quite thin person with narrow shoulders could get through. As we visited one house of a jr. kg child, their parents came out, and insisted we come sit in their home for a small bowl of sheer kurma - a warm, milk-based sweet soup - a typical food offered to guests, friends, and relatives on Eid.

Then, the number of children and adults around us grew and grew until after about 30 minutes we were parading down the alleys with children, teenagers and adults, holding hands, all visiting so-and-so's house, then running into so-and-so, and all the while, full alleys of families would emerge until the whole place seemed packed full of people smiling, wishing "Happy Eid" or Eid Mubarak to each other, and insisting we sit for a cup of sheer kurma. We had to do a lot of sweet refusals!

The highlight for me was seeing my students in their own homes with family and friends - no school uniforms, no expectations, just to see them as their free kid-selves, running with their friends, excited and slightly perplexed at seeing their teacher at their home. One girl, Sabina, was dressed in an all-white, jeweled salwaar kameez (pants suit), with her hair braided and pulled back into a bun, and black kohl around her eyes - she looked like an absolute angel, I made her give her didi (me) a big hug, I just wanted to steal her and bring her home with me!!!

So, the joy of teaching the children continues...!

And to top it all off, Will and I are enjoying a bottle of red wine we found downtown, cooking spaghetti, and enjoying the Mumbai life!

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