Weekend pilgrimage to the source of the Godavari River

Last weekend Serenity and I took a trip out of the city for the first time. We took a 5 hour bus ride to the town of Nashik in the Western Ghats (where we promptly missed our stop and were dumped on the side of the road 2 miles outside of Nashik).

After sharing an autorickshaw back into town (there were seven of us on the rickshaw, including the driver) we settled in at our hotel and enjoyed having cable TV (well, actually, simply enjoyed having TV - period).

Early the next morning, we took another bus 30 minutes to the town of Trymbukshwar, where the river Godavari begins. The Godavari is kind of like the Ganges for Southern India - it begins in Nashik and runs all the way southeast and dumps out on the eastern coast. Hindu pilgrims travel from all over India and hike up to the top of the mountain where a spring starts the great river.

The town of Trymbukshwar was definitely India - there was an open air temple in town that surrounded a big pool, where pilgrims bathed in the holy waters of the Godavari. We were asked to take pictures with several people - they don't get foreigners out here.

We just kind of wandered toward what looked like the right mountain, snaking our way through small roads of the town. We met one guy who was also going to the mountain, and luckily he showed us the way.

The area reminded us both of a big Upper Bidwell Park - but with monkeys. It was the dry season, so only a few areas had green trees, but it was beautiful.

Once we got out of the town, we started up the mountain.

Eventually we reached the rock cliffs where the real climbing began.

Once we reached the base of the rock cliffs, we had to climb ancient steps. They were carved deep into the rock, and you ended up passing through steep steps with high rock walls on either side, with barely enough room for two people to pass. At one point there was a tunnel going up through the rock.

You can see here the steps high above us at one point.

The challenging part of this climb wasn't the steep steps, or the heat. It was the crazy monkeys that lined the steps above your head. They knew people were basically trapped in there, and they sat above you so they were at least eye-level.

Then they tried to take what they could. I'd have pictures, but they would have stolen my camera.

I was carrying a water bottle, and one little monkey got on the steps in front of me and tried to face me down for it. I yelled and stamped my foot, but he just kept coming for us, even growling. He had the primate "play face" on, so I think he wasn't going to bite - he thought it was a game.

Someone behind us told me that he wanted the water bottle, and to hide it. So I stuffed it in my backpack. We eventually chased the monkey off...but all of a sudden Serenity yelled at me, and I turned around to see the monkey with both hands in my backpack, yanking on the water bottle trying to take it out of my pack. I had to swat him off.

I've never been scared of a little monkey before. But seriously, you're like fish in a fishbowl on these steps - and those monkeys know they have you trapped.

Finally, we reached the top where there was a Hindu temple dedicated to the river Godavari. The spring wasn't much to speak of this time of year, but there was a little area that could fill up with water (if there was some) inside, next to a cow statue and a Shiva statue.

One monkey got on top of the temple, much to the abhorrence of the pilgrims, who began shouting at him and throwing pebbles trying to get him off the top - I think it was an insult.

That just riled the monkey up more. He began jumping up and down on top, which just made the small crowd below start yelling more. Finally, the crowd coaxed him down by bribing him with food. Why do I think this monkey knew he could extort food by desecrating the temple?


This is the view looking down toward the town, where we just climbed up. Down below there are little grass huts where people sell water or "lemon water."

Everyone we met was real friendly, and a group of guys from Gujarat climbed most of the way with us. They insisted on buying Serenity and I a glass of lemon water at one of these huts, saying that we "were their guests."
It was another one of those "can't really say no" situations...and despite knowing the water came from a nearby open well (which wasn't too clean), we felt we had no choice.

It's been 48 hours - no violent stomach spasms yet.

At the top of the mountain, we sat and ate next to some pilgrims. They didn't speak English, but were real friendly and shared their food with us.

We had a great, short trip. And it was nice to come back to Mumbai. Though it's hot now.

I'm continually surprised at how friendly people are. You'd think a country with a billion people would get sick of other people, but it's the opposite. While walking through a playground in Nashik Saturday evening, two young boys came up and wanted to talk with us. They knew a little English.

Later, three blocks away, the same kid tapped me from behind. He showed me a 100 rupee bill and asked if he could "buy some American coins." I hated to disappoint him, but I told him I had none.


Lastly, this is a photo I took from the safety of our apartment on Holi, the festival of color where everyone attacks each other with powder dye and water balloons. This group of young men had just finished "playing Holi."

Serenity is getting busier by the day, preparing for school. They are looking for a "school anthem," something easy, short, and appropriate for the little kids to sing everyday. If anyone has any suggestions, please let us know.

I have also started updating my blog again, stuff about India and leftover stuff from Afghanistan that I never posted. Please ignore anything you find offensive...
http://www.internationalpoliticalwill.com/